A 5,000,000,000 Star Experience

Antigua to Atitlan Safari Trek

Our sister company Trek Guatemala has just returned from its first customer trip, trekking from Antigua to Lake Atitlan.  A vision that was crafted from a couple nights drinking bourbon around the campfire out in the back country, brought the idea to connect the two tourist centers together via a well thought out, carefully planned, community/culturally based trekking route.  While the walking itself is pretty spectacular the well-appointed safari style tent camps are down right mind blowing. Trek Guatemala wanted to create a rewarding and engaging trekking route while at the same time offering all the creature comforts that are typically forgotten about on an ordinary trekking holiday. Think hot showers and queen size beds with down duvets! 

The current trek is a three day two night experience starting just a few kilometers outside of Antigua.  It was carefully hand crafted to combine scenic trail passing through culturally interesting areas with rich community interactions and stunning campsite placements.  Day one has the group cresting out high above the Antigua valley before dropping in the Acatenango valley well known for its great coffee. The group walks through working coffee farms and then climbs up to a seemingly forgotten Mayan village at the end of a dirt road directly facing Acatenango and active Fuego volcanoes.  This is the “Fuego” camp, fittingly named after one of the two volcanoes that dominate the view.  With a little luck sipping wine around the campfire you will get a front row seat to one of Fuego’s famous lava eruptions. 

Employing locals from the villages along the route ensures that there is always an opportunity to gain some insight into the lives of those who live in the area but to also give back to the communities in which they pass through.  The group is always accompanied by a local guide who along the trek can point out and share their personal experiences in the area, be it the hardships of 35 years of civil war to peasant subsistence farming life.  They have also trained women and men from neighboring villages at each campsite as cooks, guides and camp helpers.

Day two of the trek takes you through lush cloud forest and up high on a ridge that separates the more arid highland plateau and the lush Pacific slope.  Traversing the ridge there are amble opportunities to see bird life and other animals.  After a full day of walking the group walks into the second overnight camp called the “Agua”, named for its huge views over the distant Lake Atitlan, your next and final objective.  The campsite is nestled in a hill top forest just outside a small village. Part of the philosophy with Trek Guatemala’s vision was to create a rewarding cultural experience with the people of Guatemala.  In this village there is a women’s weaving cooperative that create textiles on the centuries old fashion back strap looms.  These textiles are then gathered together and taken to such places as Antigua or Panajachel where they are sold to tourists.  Here you will be able to see first-hand how these wonderful textiles are made and have an opportunity to buy direct from the weavers themselves leaving a greater economic impact.

Leaving “Agua” camp on the morning of day three, the trail dives down through beet, corn, broccoli and bean fields and into shaded coffee and avocado farms on its way down to the Madre Vieja river.  It’s a steep climb up and out of the river valley to the top of the shelf overlooking Lake Atitlan.  The reward of nearly three full days of walking is evident as the group crests out over the lake and starts making its descent to the water’s edge.  Moving now through a distinctly different landscape the group drops steeply and steadily on the rocky trails overlooking Lake Atitlan.  There is an opportunity for a stop off at a Mayan Altar in a cave above the town of San Antonio.  Continuing down here the trail as it winds closer to town begins to weave through terraced onion and flower fields where local farmers channel the limited water into their terraces based on an age old water sharing practice.

Arriving to the lake trekkers can decide to either pack it in the bus and head back to Antigua or stay out on the lake at one of the many hotels there.  Trek Guatemala is in process to continue the trek from Atitlan across the altiplano to Quetzaltenango locally known as Xela.  For now however, they are offering extensions to the Hotel La Casa del Mundo in Jaibalito where trekkers can kayak or relax in a swinging in a hammock lakeside. 

For about $150 per person per day, the trek is all inclusive.  All you have to do is show up, lace up the ole boots and take in the sites of the trail.  The well-oiled machine of Trek Guatemala will do all the heavy lifting and logistical planning from getting you in from the airport to setting up the camps to keeping the beers cold. 

Old Town Outfitters is excited to be partnering with Trek Guatemala to help travelers find this unique, handcrafted trekking one-of-a-kind cultural trekking experience.

Nebaj to Todos Santos: All Saints' Day Special Offer

High season is about to begin and we are kicking it off with an Old Town Outfitters special! We have been hiking and biking out in the Cuchumatanes in the past, but now we have finally wrapped our heads around a unique trek and made it work. “Nebaj to Todos Santos, Hut-to-Hut” is a 6-day, 5-night hike across a roughly 70km stretch of the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes, heading west from the center of the Ixil triangle in Quiché all the way to Todos Santos Cuchumatán, Huehuetenango. 

Not only are you hiking through one of Guatemala’s most serene and remote regions, rich in culturally and historically significant references – you have the chance to do so in time for one of the most important holidays of the year: Día de Todos Los Santos, or All Saints’ Day. Every year on November 1^st, Todos Santos hosts some of the more remarkable and memorable All Saints’ Day festivities you can experience. 

This predominantly Maya Mam town is known throughout Guatemala for the distinctive traditional garb that the locals wear year round. And for All Saints’ Day, they bring out their Sunday best, so to speak. Topping off the festivities is the horse race, an adrenaline-inducing spectacle fueled by the fact that most of the riders are drinking and have been doing so since All Hallows’ Eve, i.e. the night before. 

After the relative craziness of All Saints’ Day, things calm down somewhat on the following day, when people gather to honor the deceased on Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). You don’t have to participate in the race, just being there to watch and take it all in will make for an incomparable adventure and an unforgettable experience.

Would you like to know more about this trip? Here is the summary from our Adventure Guatemala website: 6 days of “out there” trekking across the remote departments of Quiché and Huehuetenango. This trek traverses areas only accessible by foot. We’ll walk through small, seemingly forgotten Mayan villages of people that were displaced by nearly 35 years of civil war. Along the way we stay in small community run hostels and/or hotels and break bread with local families.  Much of the route is above 10,000 ft. across the Guatemalan altiplano.  

We offer 2 options along this classic route; both treks start in the Ixil Mayan stronghold of Nebaj and finish in the remote mountain village of Todos Santos, famous for its “Day of the Dead” festivities. On our hut-to-hut option we rely each night on the hospitality of the local communities we pass through. We will spend 4 nights in community hostels that are set up across the highlands.  We’ll sit around the hearth of a local home and break bread with a local family.  

Our hut and hotel route plies much of the same route with a couple detours to visit 2 boutique hotels nestled in the area.  This is the perfect mix between the more rustic hut to hut and full luxury.  We’ll spend two nights in community hostels and 2 nights in beautiful unique boutique hotels; one a working artisanal cheese farm and the other a horseback riding center.

Can you think of a better way to spend Halloween this year? Thought so. Get in touch with us at adventureguatemala.com, and do so sooner rather than later! We only have 4 spots left on this trip, and Todos Santos is a popular destination this time of the year.

Chasing the elusive Quetzal

This past weekend we headed back up into the Sierra de las Minas to scope out logistics to re-open our "Trail of the Quetzal" trip.  Our trek  into the sierra is a unique opportunity to get out in to very remote and pristine Guatemalan backcountry. The Sierra encompasses more than %60 of Guatemala's remaining cloud forest.  It is home to the highest concentration  of the elusive Quetzal, the national bird, icon and currency, tapirs, monkeys and other large mammals.   The park is the key attraction of the conservation organization Defensores de la Naturaleza who are largely responsible for its creation as well as management.  

Working with the Defensores, we have create two different trips into the park.  Both trips start in a local community high up in the mountains at the base of the park.  One itinerary is a three day trip will focus of those who want to get into the core area of the park called the "zona nucleo" where we will have great chances to see Quetzales.  The "zona nucleo" stays high up on the ridge in prime cloud forest.  We will take two separate day hikes out to beautiful rock formations and high points to get an amazing view out over the park dominated by what seems to be a million shades of green.
  

Our second itinerary is a 4 day trip that will not only focus on the "zona nucleo" but will push further through the park.  We will have the opportunity to trek through areas that almost no visitors see. We'll stay in small rustic "park ranger cabins" nestled around the park.  This is a much more intense trip, not for the faint at heart, but the payoff is amazing!  Hiking deeper into the woods you will have more opportunity to see the abundant wildlife that make the Sierra las Minas so unique.  Troops of monkeys swing through the trees above, birds seem to be everywhere, and follow fresh tapir y puma tracks.  

While in the park we walk each day with locals from nearby communities who are employed by the Defensores to act as resource officers.  These guys really know the park!  They point out everything of interest along the trail as well as help us to identify the songs of the birds overhead.  They know where to look to find the Quetzal, how to follow tracks on the forest floor and everything else about the forest.  We stay each night in the cabins that they use while out on patrol.  There are cabins places strategically around the park.  The nicest of which are located on the ridge in the "zona nucleo".  The rest of the cabins are more modest and rustic but still serve their purpose: to give us shelter for the night, a nice cozy warm place to dry out and tell stories around the campfire.  

The Sierra las Minas is currently not a major well-known attraction like Tikal, Antigua or Lake Atitlan and is thus often time passed over when planning a trip to Guatemala, which is a huge shame.  The Sierra is a world class destination, ground zero for Guatemalan wilderness.  It should be part of your next visit to Guatemala.  Get in touch with us at Old Town Outfitters if you are interested!

See ya on the trail.

Nebaj to Todos Santos Trek

So we went and got ourselves back on the road to Quiché, one of Guatemala’s most populous departments. The work at hand was to scout out the “Nebaj to Todos Santos trek”, a trip that is essentially a traverse of part of the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes. This mountain range runs for 400km in west-east direction through the neighboring departments of Huehuetenango and Quiché. With peaks clearing 3800m, it is considered the highest non-volcanic sierra in all of Central America. The name “Cuchumatán” btw is derived from the Maya Mam words “cuchuj” (=to join) and “matán” (=with great force), and thus means “what has been joined with great force”.

When crossing the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes, we set out from Nebaj, one of the villages that form part of the so-called Ixil Triangle. This is the first hint as to the historic cross references that come into play on this trek. The hike entails clearing roughly 70km of trail in 6 days, most of which while crossing the flats of the “altiplano”, the Guatemalan highlands. The initial climb onto the plateau contains most of the elevation gain (ca. 1300m/5600ft.), with the rest coming as part of the ascent to La Torre, one of the highest points of the sierra (3832m/12.646ft.) 

The trail on this hike comes in all kinds of terrain, from pine-needle strewn forest floor, to limestone scattered over dirt roads, to grass-covered flats. The occasional mudfest is also not unlikely, as we learned this time around: After some torrential downpour in the night, descending through Pajuil País became somewhat of a unexpected challenge. As we were going downhill, our boots, caked in mud, were about as useful as soaped up cement blocks on our feet.

The Cuchumatanes are something else. I still can’t quite put my finger on it, even after two visits it’s hard to describe. Hiking there is not a spectacle, not a show as, say, hiking up Acatenango to see Fuego erupt. Some of the most gifted turns of phrase (and most of the lesser gifted; this very piece here not excluded) about Guatemala revolve around its beautiful landscapes, so I wonder if it bears repeating: but there really is no way around acknowledging the views, and to a great degree, it is the remoteness of the area and the vastness of the views that make up the lasting impression. They give the hike an even more contemplative quality than usual, especially when you happen to walk flat, green pastures in a soft rain with sheep in distant sight.

But it’s really when you’re walking through the villages that the slower pace of life becomes strikingly apparent. In so many cases, you get sensory overload from all the sensations around you before you can really get a sense of place, and by the time you’re leaving, you’ve forgotten half of them. Hiking the Cuchumatanes provides a good balance between perceptive details and ample time to process them. Here you have distinct notions of architecture, clothing, and pastoral lifestyle that you can observe and grasp in order to get this area’s unique geographic and cultural identity.

Would you like to know more abut this trip.  Check out the 5 day Nebaj to Todos Santos hut to hut trip on our website. See ya on the trail.

Eventually useful bit of random trail advice: when you come across a sheep that's tied to a tree trunk and effectively stretching the rope across the trail, don't step over the rope. Because once you spook the sheep, which you will, it will try to cut across into the field while still ahead of you and, with the rope, take your feet right out from under you. See the sheep understands the implications of being tied to a tree just about as much as the courtesy behind trying not to spook it. And since you're going to do that anyway, there is no sense in trying to be polite about it.

Cuchumantanes trekking

About five hours to the west of La Antigua, Guatemala lies Central America's highest mountain range, the Cuchumantanes.



These mountains have a feeling of remoteness similar to some of it's South American cousins. Life in many areas of these mountains goes in as it has for centuries. Mayan farmers and sheep herders work and walk the land. There are very few villages up here in these mountains, most of which only comprise of a few houses.


Taking advantage of the low population density, open space, huge views and most importantly, abundance of trail, Old Town Outfitters offers many different walks across these remote mountains. We can build day walks into an existing itinerary or build a custom five day walk across the altiplano from Nebaj to Todos Santos.



This past weekend we were fortunate enough to head out on an amazing three day trekking circuit taking in some of the best trail in the area. We stayed in community hostals and locals houses to fully immerse ourselves in the local surroundings. There is no better way to really experience the area than to gather around the hearth at meals times and talk to the folks from the area.



There is an amazing opportunity to take in more than just the natural beauty of an area when you are invited into their homes.
On day two we reached our treks objective of Laguna Magdalena, a hidden alpine lake that impossibly sits in a steep valley overlooking the low-lands below. It was a tough walk across the limestone studded hills but the Laguna made it all worth while.



The trails that cross cross the western highlands of Guatemala weave their way in and out of beautiful valleys, wide and vast plains and amazing pine studded hills. As you walk you are constantly reminded of a time long past, villages with no roads to get to them, houses with no power, and candle lit meals by the hearth.



This is truly one of the last untamed expanses in Guatemala. A place where back country lives up to its name.
This is a place that although requires a bit of effort to get to, pays off ten fold in what it gives back.


Come check it out! Get in touch with Old Town Outfitters and let us put together a trek for you that is for sure to leave a lasting impression.



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